In November, 2010, after the volleyball venture, I went to Seoul alone just to see what there was to see anywhere else I could find it. Randomly, I got off at a subway station, went outside, and started walking. Soon, I saw a sign that said "War Memorial." From where I was standing, I could see no sign of such a thing. In fact I couldn't see such a thing for awhile as I kept walking. Suddenly, there it was, and it was HUGE! I mean it was like it sneaked up on me! spent the next four hours there!
After that, I learned (by walking) that Itaewon was just up the road a bit.
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